So I've pretty much determined that there is no place on the face of the earth (that I've been to, anyways) that is more emotionally available than Israeli society. It's astonishingly beautiful to be part of a culture that has so much self-esteem that it doesn't care if you see it succeed, mess up, laugh, or cry. And last week, on Yom Ha'Zikaron (Israeli Memorial Day to her fallen soldiers and victims of terror), we saw the country cry.
For a day starting last Sunday night, the country basically stopped and remembered those who fought and died for Israel. Twice during Yom Ha'Zikaron, a siren sounded all over the country (the same bone-chilling siren that went off during Yom Ha'Shoah) and people stopped whatever they were doing for a minute of silence. Unless you're an ultra-religious Jew (who doesn't believe that Israel should exist), a member of some Israeli Arab neighborhoods (who doesn't believe that Israel should exist), or a complete a$$hole, you probably stopped whatever you were doing for this. In a country as small as this one, chances are pretty good you know someone who's been affected.
I was at the Western Wall in the Old City of Jerusalem for the "tekes" (ceremony), which was a very moving tribute and especially poignant when you consider that the Wall is the holiest site to Jews.
Israelis here talk a lot about how the country is becoming less and less patriotic. But when you come from the States or France, and you witness first-hand the public displays of weeping, and you listen to the sad songs on the radio, and you stand with Israelis for tributes, it's enough to make you wonder if the country you come from recognizes its fallen soldiers the same way...
The Kotel, or Western Wall, during Yom Ha'Zikaron ceremonies.
Soldiers "protecting" the flag and, what I
think, is some kind of eternal flame.
Moving experience to be a part of...
As moving as Yom Ha'Zikaron was, the most amazing part of the day is what it leads into...Yom Ha'Atzmaut: Israel Independence Day. The logic is genius in its simplicity. Celebrate Independence Day the day after Memorial Day to remind everyone what the sacrifice was for. In the States, we have over a month in between Memorial Day and July 4. Hard to make an obvious connection between the two holidays with 6 weeks in between them. That's not a knock on how we do things in the States...it's just an observation.
Anyways, the way Yom Ha'Zikaron blends right into Yom Ha'Atzmaut is interesting. On Monday night, people started mulling around in the streets and slowly the mood changed from sadness to celebration. By midnight, the streets in downtown Jerusalem had all been closed off and people were singing and dancing...sheer happiness. I, of course, had no idea how to move along to any of these dances. But, relying on my experiences as unofficial bar/bat mitzvah dance contest king from 15 years ago, I managed to fit in perfectly.
Here are some pictures of Israel's 59th birthday party:
Kikar Safra blowin' up.
Random people doing what appears to be dancing. No one really knows
and no one really cared...
Kikar Zion, the main city square in Jerusalem, packed.
Happy 59th birthday, Israel. A long way to go until
"forever" years old...
Little girl preparing to beat her father with a hammer...
Me and the roommates: Ilan and Naty
Me and my friend Dikla. I don't care what anyone thinks...glowstick necklaces ARE cool.
Naty and Miriam. Naty almost looks normal in this picture for a change...
We don't drink alcohol...and especially never on Independence Day.
Me and my buddy Josh. He's borrowing my beard for a while...
Jason, Ilan, me, Arye, and Naty. I am eating an Israeli flag...
I'm not sure why, it didn't taste particularly good.
The parties raged on all night, which allowed me to be good and exhausted for the next day's trip to Tel Aviv for another Israeli Yom Ha'Atzmaut tradition: bbq on the beach. Kudos to my friend Jacob for supplying a feast...
So there you have it...another few slices of Israel life. By the way for those who have inquired...yes I still do go to school and I am still an M.A. student in between all this "fun."
-E
